Regional tourism outlook – Part 2

Newsroom 01/08/2011 | 14:15

Chisinau

Moldova has been more associated in the press with political uprisings than tourism in recent years, but its place off the beaten track is only further argument to visit now, before this amiable capital plays hosts to tour parties and Starbucks. The capital of Chisinau has a laidback vibe that gives it a markedly different feel from the frenetic energy of Bucharest. That the country’s national language is Romanian – though Russian is also widely spoken – will be of help to anyone who has a basic grasp from their time living here. Part of the pleasure of visiting is simply wandering the wide avenues and admiring the more elegant buildings and green spaces – something that takes many visitors by surprise. The city doesn’t have flagship attractions such as the People’s Palace; the fun is more about unexpected finds, like wandering into a quirky bookshop and coming out with a clutch of Soviet-era postcards. But there are a few monuments and attractions, such as the Arch of Triumph, Stefan Cel Mare monument and Pushkin Museum. There’s also a dynamic nightlife, and if you’re an oenophile, Chisinau is a good base for from which to take a trip into wine country.

Getting there: Daily buses and trains run between Bucharest and Chisinau, taking a minimum of 12 hours. Reasonably priced flights, taking about an hour and ten minutes, are operated by Tarom and Air Moldova (www.airmoldova.md).
Formalities: Visas no longer required for EU citizens for stays of less than 90 days.
Sleeping: Less than ten years old, the Flowers Hotel (hotelflowers.md) has bright and spacious rooms that boast works by local artists.

Dalmatian Coast

If you’re tired of spending every summer at the Black Sea and want something a little different from the Greek islands, try the rugged Dalmatian Coast. The azure waters of the Adriatic are ideal for swimming, not to mention sailing – island hopping is a popular way of seeing the fabulous Croatian coastline, replete with its crags and channels. The Mediterranean climate should ensure pleasantly balmy weather during your visit. And there’s naturally plenty of seafood to enjoy en route. Two major historical towns along the coast are worth visiting. The main attraction of Split, whose old center is a UNESCO World Heritage site, is Diocletian’s Palace, a well preserved limestone and marble structure that in its day held 9,000 people. Further to the south is Dubrovnik, which has been inspiring artists for a long time (George Bernard Shaw said, “If you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik.”) The 12th-century walled city offers a wealth of admirable architecture – churches, palaces and monasteries – and there are marble-paved squares in which to sit and enjoy the atmosphere. The city’s elevation also results is glorious views over the Adriatic.

Getting there: Tarom operates seasonal flights to Dubrovnik. The distances involved rule out land transport for a short trip.
Formalities. No visas needed for EU citizens.

Istanbul

Straddling two continents either side of the Bosporus River, Istanbul is a thriving hive of activity, history, culture and leisure, whose size and gamut of joys will persuade you to return again and again. Though there are attractions aplenty, the megacity has an earthy authenticity that will appeal to anyone who considers him or herself a traveler rather than a tourist. Many of the top sites are in close proximity, with the iconic Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace all around Sultanahmet Square, which should be your starting point if your trip is brief. If you’re planning on doing some shopping, the Grand Bazaar, a labyrinthine covered market selling everything from cups to coats to carpets, should meet most needs; it’s also worth visiting for the cultural experience. Other quintessentially Turkish activities include smoking a nargile, the national water pipe, and visiting a hamam, a Turkish bath house, for the massage of your life. It’s also fun wandering aimlessly and taking in the energy of this dynamic city, which has survived on trade on its journey from Byzantium to Constantinople to Istanbul. The contrast between the Western style goods being enthusiastically promoted by local entrepreneurs and the headscarf-clad Muslim women sums up the mix of east and west.
Getting there: Both Tarom and Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) operate daily flights which take less than an hour and a half.
Formalities: Visas are required but can be bought on arrival at the airport.
Sleeping: The neoclassical Four Seasons (www.fourseasons.com) has changed a lot since its former incarnation as a prison, and enjoys a central spot at Sultanahmet.

Rome

Known variously as Caput Mundi (Capital of the World). l’Urbe (The City), and la Città Eterna (The Eternal City), Rome’s place in world culture, history and civilization is unsurpassed, and makes the Italian capital one of the three most visited cities in the European Union (after London and Paris). A couple of days here is enough for just a flavor of this great metropolis. Most of the top attractions will already be familiar to the visitor from fiction, film and perhaps school history lessons. They could easily fill up a week, but if you’re on a short trip the priorities should include the Trevi Fountain, Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Pantheon and Vatican City, of course a separate country in its own right. A clutch of other churches, palaces, monuments and ruins can easily fill any leftover time, though part of the fun is meandering amid the Latin buzz. Then there are the classic Italian experiences – anyone for a tour on a Vespa, the iconic Italian scooter? And that is not to forget the food and drink, from the pizza and pasta to sipping an espresso at a sidewalk café.

Getting there: Alitalia (www.alitalia.com) and Tarom run regular flights between Otopeni and Rome-Fiumicino, 35 km from town, while low-cost operator Wizz Air uses Rome-Ciampino, 12 km from central Rome, operating out of Baneasa.
Formalities: No visas needed for EU citizens.
Sleeping: The luxurious St Regis (www.starwoodhotels.com) features individually decorated rooms and suites and all the class associated with the Starwood brand.

Sofia

A more compact and less hectic version of Bucharest, Sofia is a great place to wind down, not to mention to stock up on well priced Bulgarian red wines. Its proximity to the Romanian capital makes it a viable destination even if you have just a couple of days and prefer not to fly. Residents of Bucharest will find the smart, Soviet-era public buildings and Orthodox churches familiar. The main tourist drag is on and around Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard, which hosts the National Assemble of Bulgaria, the National Art Gallery and Ethnographic Museum, which share the premises of the former royal palace, and the eye-catching Russian Church. On a short trip, make this area your starting point. If time allows the Boyana Church, with its 13th-century frescoes, make a fascinating trip from the center. The city is also home to a thriving café culture, so sitting on a terrace with a glass of wine is recommended. And for some reason, sushi is also hugely popular in Sofia, thanks in part to the refreshingly low prices. The Central Sofia Market Hall, near the synagogue, is the place to get all your holiday shopping done.

Getting there: There are twice daily trains from Bucharest, taking 10-11 hours, while buses are cheaper and quicker. Sofia is also an easy, four-five hour drive from the Romanian capital, which means that few choose to fly, but if you prefer to travel that way Tarom serves the city.
Formalities. No visas needed for EU citizens.
Sleeping: It’s a toss-up between the central and plush Grand Hotel Sofia (www.grandhotelsofia.bg) and the fabulous Kempinski Hotel Zografski as to which is Sofia’s best hotel.

Veliko Turnovo

The capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, it is the combination of extraordinary architecture and its position on three hills, with the resulting views, that recommend Veliko Turnovo, which is not yet on the mainstream travel map. The big-hitting cultural site is the Tsarevets fortress, now in ruins, the former royal seat. There is also a small army of churches, a few museums, and many buildings showcasing the Bulgarian National Revival (the term given to the renaissance under Ottoman rule) style. Fresh mountain air and the verdant environment make the place a refreshing escape from the urban thrum, while its status as a university town ensures a thriving nightlife and laidback atmosphere. The sound and light show is worth catching; check local adverts.

Getting there: From Bucharest, take the bus to Ruse and then switch to another bus or train, if you’re travelling under your own steam. A more convenient way is to drive (count on at least five or six hours), or visit the town as part of a wider Bulgarian holiday.
Formalities. No visas needed for EU citizens.
Sleeping: The affordable Interhotel (www.interhotelvt.bg) has superb gorge views and quiet, comfortable rooms.

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