The non-smoker’s guide to Bucharest: Where to have a good time, SMOKE FREE

We can all agree, smokers and non-smokers alike, that Romania and its capital are lagging behind in the race to cure the human race of its nasty smoking habit. Romania is one of the few European countries where smoking inside is not prohibited, which makes most bars and cafes pretty much disgusting for those that do not worship at the altar of the Marlboro Man (Marlboro did not pay us to write this).

How is it possible that smoking inside is so widely pervasive in Bucharest Nightlife. You must know that Romanians are not complete barbarians, nor are they stuck in the 60’s. Smoking is prohibited in public places such as hospitals, concert halls, and theatres.

Locales such as nightclubs, bars, pubs, cafes and other places people go to have fun, take advantage of a loophole in the legislation which says that as long as you ANNOUNCE at the entrance that the establishment allows smoking,  locale managers are in the clear. The decision to enter the establishment is completely up to the non-smoking citizen. What more can the state do?

However, there are a couple of places around town where smoking (inside) is under a complete ban. We made a parenthesis for the simple reason that most of them, with a couple of exceptions, have a terrace outside where smoking is allowed.

Teahouses

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Prioritea

PrioriTea’s big draw may be it’s ultracentral location in the Villacrosse Passage (they only just recently moved there), but we also love the chic furniture and the muffins (especially the muffins).

Infinitea

Very few places in Bucharest warrant the use of the word “enchanted” but this is one of them, located in an old noble house, close to Romniceanu Park. Its magic can work against it: the atmosphere is so cosy and dreamy, it is really not fit for business or formal meetings.

Green Tea

Green Tea is one of the very first tea-houses in Bucharest, established some time before teahouses became “a thing”. The old-style home has floors decorated in different styles: Japanese, Indian, french, which makes Green Tea one eclectic tea-house.

Ceai la Cotroceni

If you’re into alternative places, this is the tea house for you. It is located in a basement and it’s always shrouded in darkness, which could be a good thing because if you saw the old cracked walls in the daylight, you may get the creeps. But there’s a reason this place is one of the advertisers’ favorite hangouts in Bucharest. One word: Inspiration.

Bohemia Tea House

Located near the Conservatory, the artistic streak is alive and well in this place, from the paintings on the walls to the hand-painted tea-cups.

La Vlaicu

Best visited in the summer, La Vlaicu excels for its incredibly green terrace. The interior keeps it classy and uncluttered.

Cofeehouses

Origo

Origo is one of the hippest new places in Bucharest, created especially for the people with a passion for coffee.  At night, the small coffeehouse on Lipscani transforms into a cocktail bar so the smoke free fun can continue.

Starbucks

Starbucks cafes, whether downtown like the one in Victoriei Square or inside malls, have a complete ban on interior smoking. Starbucks prices in Romania start at around 7/8 lei for a tall coffee brewed in a simple filtre and up to 17-18 lei for Venti specialty coffees.

Camera din Fata 

This small coffeehouse is owned by Voltaj’s frontman, Calin Goia, who explained he wanted a place that would remind him of his grandparents house. While the inner decor does remind one of a place with a lot of history, the fact that Camera din Fata has the same supplier as the Royal House of Romania says something to the quality of the drinks served here at present.

Pubs

Escapes

Is it a cafe, is it a pub? It’s certainly not a place to have lunch, since it only serves sandwiches and deserts. But it does feel like you are visiting a friend and taking a breather in their living room. If your friend lived near Cismigiu and made really good coffee.

Restaurants

Urbanesc

Urbanesc is the hippest kid-friendly restaurant in town, with a special playroom and a warm invitation for Urban Dads and Moms to smoke outside. It comes warmly recommended by famous Romanian actor Dragos Bucurenci.

Casa Satya

Vegetarians are something of an oddity in Bucharest, but if there’s one place where they are more than welcomed it’s Casa Satya. They also make home deliveries.

Cercul Militar*

Within the Military Circle behind University Square you will find a restaurant that serves excellent Romanian dishes, where there is no smoking and also no aggressive attempts at trying to be “hip and cool”. The interiors are gorgeous and the waiters are slightly gruff, but endearing.

*You better not be waiting for a website link. This is a public institution. What would they need a website for?

Violeta’s Vintage Kitchen

Violeta captures that “home cooked meal” charm that so many otherwise cosy restaurants in Bucharest lack.

La placinte

For a taste of Moldova in downtown Bucharest (Romana square to be precise) head over to La Placinte.

Diana Petrescu