Restaurant review: Dying for asparagus

Masterclass Demonstration at the Crowne Plaza, on 5 May. Phone 0723 657 809

Would you take a human life and kill for a vegetable? I would, if someone was stupid enough to mooch off my dinner plate. But I draw the line at killing thousands of people over a veg.

Michael Barclay

But this is precisely what happened in antiquity when in Egypt, many generations of Pharaohs declared that the asparagus was so serenely beautiful, only they could cultivate it, and if anyone other than the Court was found in possession of it, it merited a death sentence.

And I understand why. For thousands of years, and right up to modern times, the asparagus has been recognized as nature’s most luxurious natural production. And to this day, it still inflames passions, although not enough of them to kill – or maybe I am wrong. Think of this:

In 1939 Hitler invaded Czechoslovakia for two reasons, namely: he wanted to give his troops a taste of real Pilsner beer, because they all knew German beer was then, and still is, crap! But Hitler was a vegetarian (a universally recognized fact) and he craved GREEN asparagus which was plentiful everywhere except Germany, who only had inferior WHITE asparagus. OK, it is a humorous bar story, but it highlights one important fact.

You see, Germany obdurately clings to the absurdity of growing asparagus without sunlight, thereby denying it the production of chlorophyll and making it an albino hybrid. Utterly foolish in my opinion because it makes it vaguely sweet and wimpy. A bit like Mrs. Merkel’s German Government Cabinet!

But for once, Britain and France unite and agree in the furious debate over white asparagus vs. green. In fact, almost all of Europe loves the firm, crispy, strong flavor of natural green over unnatural white asparagus.

So this plant grows in warm climates in Northern Europe, North Africa, a fraction of China and the USA in dry sandy soil. Therefore it is a rare product. On its own, it tastes wonderful. But in the hands of a Master Chef it can be raised to celestial heights. It is like taking Ghetto rap music and turning it into a symphony. And this is what the Crowne P is going to achieve this week on Thursday 5 May at 18.30.

You will be welcomed with a cocktail and then you take a seat in front of an open kitchen. Chef Ashlie Dias has positioned his masterclass presentation at a level whereby all the guests can prepare his dishes easily in their homes. Careful thought has gone into the choice of dishes. Given that we will be full with meat over the Easter holidays, the dishes will be a meat free extravaganza. That means that even loopy vegetarians can treat themselves to a night out on Thursday. So his choice will be:

Asparagus with baby shrimp salad and caviar vinaigrette.

Asparagus tempura with prawns and ponzu sauce.

Asparagus risotto, truffle oil and parmesan froth.

Asparagus papillote (cooked in a bag) with clams, prawns and thyme butter.

You can relax and watch the show, or even participate! But it does not end there. After the presentation, you will be invited to a gourmet’s dinner delight consisting of all of Ashlie’s asparagus creations plus a dessert, and all washed down with some fine wine.

At the time of going to press, the House was considering charging RON 140. This is a bargain for an entire evening’s entertainment, plus a four-course meal with wine and coffee. So what are you waiting for? Make a reservation now.

mab.media@dnt.ro

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