Restaurant Review: Bucharest beach Poolside Brunch at the Radisson

Newsroom 01/06/2009 | 16:27

So step forward the Radisson as its replacement after a hiatus of some eight years. They share some facilities with their neighbour, the huge World Class Fitness Center, so if you wish to use the Radisson's outside pool, tell your waiter and you can use the gym's changing rooms.
I arrived on Sunday for brunch to find the place packed with hundreds of guests. Not all were dining, as the House allows day guests to use the pool for a small fee. Most of them were drop-dead gorgeous female poseurs.
Irrespective of how wealthy they appeared to be, I suspect they were too mean to pay for a brunch or to use the pool bar as I saw several of them sneaking in their own drinks in their dubiously authentic Prada bags. But I came to eat, so let's get on with it!
It is a new menu which means it is not the original brunch moved out of doors. As befits an al fresco extravaganza, the meat carvery is based upon a BBQ. But not the open charcoal barbie you have loved to hate every summer of your life. This is a sophisticated smoking engine.
Wood and charcoal are burned in a semi-sealed grill, and the food is placed in a chamber whereby smoke passes over the food. This means the meat and fish is massaged in smoke, keeping all of its moisture rather than being burned on an open grill.
The effect is dramatically different and it is vastly superior to the traditional ‘old' method. Another departure from the ‘old' barbie is that the Rad chefs do not start the fire with petrol-soaked, packaged firelighters, which always made the meat taste like a gas station attendant's jock strap.They do it the hard, slow way with a flame.
And what meat it was. I gorged on tender Argentinian sirloin steak together with juicy New Zealand lamb. By that point I had had my money's worth but there was far more to come. I had whole dorada, smoked spare ribs, trout, giant prawns and chicken tandoori.
Under the shade of the pool bar there was a chilled seafood section with marinated calamari, lobster cocktail, gravadlax and smoked salmon.
Away we go to the antipasti station where there was freshly baked bread, pickles and olives, mushroom salad, eggplants stuffed with sun dried tomato and cr

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