Having your cake and eating it

Serving up its namesake beverage when Starbucks was just a twinkle in its franchisee’s eye, Bucharest veteran Caffe Latte must now be about a decade old. For many years, nothing there seemed to change; not menu, not staff, not décor.

Debbie Stowe

Then, late last summer, a temporary closure stretched out into autumn until lo! A new Caffe Latte emerged from the cocoon. Gone was the familiar blue and yellow motif and in came a menu extension, taking the fare – hitherto always cake-dominated with just a nod to lunch options – into more savory territory.

So, along with the usual half dozen baguettes and toasted sandwiches (RON 7-10) there are now a couple of soups (RON 7), four salads (RON 10-15), lasagna (RON 17) and three set breakfasts that variously combine coffee, juice, water, omelets and croissants (RON 24-30). The move is in tune with the New Austerity, not only because the price-quality ratio is excellent, but because the options address the more serious business of filling up, rather than the decadence of desserts and posh teas and hot chocolates that require their own menus.

The soups – tomato and vegetable (carrot, celeriac and tomato) are blended – in Romanian terms supa rather than ciorba. Served with croutons on the side, they were tasty comfort food that does exactly what it says on the tin (speaking figuratively of course – they are freshly made on the premises and no tins are involved).

Of similarly Italian/international style are the salads: tuna, Caprese, rucola and Caesar. We tried a simple Ceasar, which was truly a Big Salad – even Seinfeld’s Elaine Benes would have been sated. Unless you’re particularly hungry, you could probably share one between two, especially if you’re having it as a side salad. Chocolate cake was dense and moist and prettily topped with shards of icing; in any case the cakes are an institution and you’ve probably already tried one.

A highlight of Caffe Latte has always been the personnel. The owner has managed to effect a very low staff turnover, so if you pop in one day and come back a couple of years later, you’re quite likely to be served by the same person. Our waiter – a veteran employee – was impeccably polite, friendly and efficient.

One tip: the CL menu serves as an approximate guide, rather than a faithful account of the obtainable options. Though about twenty cakes are listed, what is actually available is on view in the glass display case. Similarly the best sandwich – the chicken baguette – is often not to be had. No such worries with the drinks – there’s an extensive array of sprits from grappa to Crodino, most around RON 12-14. Wine is RON 13 a glass, beer RON 7-13.

The only limitations are logistical. Unfortunately the non-smoking section had to be abolished a few years ago when the law changed. And there is no terrace; al fresco consumption is at a few pavement tables, so if you sit outside you are close to parked cars and the road. (Customers hankering after some green space can take a postprandial stroll in Cismigiu, which is directly opposite.) In any case, Caffe Latte’s loyal clientele doesn’t seem to mind.

Nor did anyone seem to mind that the décor had hardly changed over the past decade – though the new look is undeniably smarter. A brown and beige color scheme chimes with the coffee theme, and there’s a lovely wall display fashioned from coffee cups. Though there is a plasma TV on the wall, it was happily on silent and did not impinge on the relaxing atmosphere.

Excellent coffee, park proximity and affable staff have ensured a decade of popularity for Caffe Latte. A swish new look and affordable menu extension seem set to continue it.

debbie.stowe@business-review.ro

Caffe Latte, 35 Bd Schitu Magureanu, 031 415 8551

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